Monday, September 23, 2013

S/S '14: Christopher Kane

Deanne reviews...

Ever since I found interest in the fashion industry, I always linked it to the capital of New York. I guess my exposure to U.S. culture was the reason for that. Thus, my designer knowledge was limited solely to names such as Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Diane Von Furstenberg, and company.

Strange then how I chose to study fashion in London. In hindsight, that was the best decision ever. I could have cared less when I first heard about Christopher Kane. I wasn’t really into emerging talent and young designers but after studying about the acquisition of Christopher Kane by Kering, I began to look into it more. Why did one of the world’s biggest multinational holding companies take such a young designer under its wings?

His spring/summer 2014 collection answered that for me.

Georgia Taylor opened his show with a mannish silhouette. Fashion insiders could have said, “That menswear trend again?” But take a second look and you’ll see a teardrop-like cutout going on which, according to Kane, are “sterilized petals”. Obviously, Kane’s inspiration for this show was flowers. I repeat: flowers. Not florals. While every one jumped on that floral pattern bandwagon, Kane brilliantly took the road less traveled and probably gave Miranda Priestly a run for her money. Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking won’t work this time because Kane took the scientific makeup of flowers and translated it with every fabric, silhouette, and detail.

Take, for example, the photosynthesis process laser cutouts on a satin dress. Blown-up flower images on a sweater. The neckline of a dress detailed with beautiful brooches. The petal form taking on the silhouette of a dress. The words “flower” and “petal” emblazoned on tops and sweaters.

The theme of the collection was feminine but as Kane has so successfully demonstrated, he is the only one who can make this worn-out trend absolutely fresh. And, not to mention, edgy. The people of Kering must be jumping out of their seats now, patting each other’s back for a wonderful acquisition.

It was a beautiful tapestry, a creative execution.
Definitely experimental.
And, on all levels, British.

I strongly sense the eventual takeover of the youngest fashion capital. 

Photos from

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